GG Tsereteli

Dato Tsereteli ships qvevri wine to restaurants across Europe, a trade he started in the nineties with a single van and the jars buried behind his grandmother's house: eight thousand years of method, he tells buyers, and about eight days of shipping window. His toasting at the family supra is regionally famous and strategically long. He brings it to the board. Before the first roll there is a toast, typed out in full, to your health or your family or the memory of somebody neither of you knew, and he will not be hurried through it or persuaded to shorten it. After that he plays faster than almost anybody in the division. Nobody has yet worked out whether the delay is hospitality or preparation.